1940 Ford Coupe


#1

I’ve been working on this 1940 for a long time and figured The LABAP PUB would be a great place to share the progress. Being that it is winter here in North Idaho right, I’m not working on body work or paint. At this time I have 2 issues to address, 1 the tilt front end and 2 the door alignment. The tilt front end didn’t work out like anticipated so I’m putting it back to original. The door alignment is WAY off and the 40 coupe has non-adjustable hinges. The door alignment is achieved by shimming the body on the frame and takes huge time and patients.

I will be out in the shop tomorrow and I’ll get some pictures that detail exactly what I’m talking about. Hang tight… Lots of pic’s to come.

Kent aka “Genesis”


#2

@Skeeterusa - Wow that thing looks like it will end up being a beast. You can always try and bend the doors into place. Sometimes a long 2x4" under the door while open works… Then you close the door and pull up (if you have a sagging door issue. I’ve aligned many classics that way. Looking forward to the new pics!


#3

Got some pictures today of the doors. Good info @TonyB going to get it close as I can shimming the body on the frame then do the bend technic.

I have no doubt in my mind that issue can be addressed. We will get it figured out for sure👍🏼


#4

Here’s a couple pictures of the tilt front end I’ thinking of getting rid of… It would be a huge step backwards but I just don’t think it will work very good as is.

Looks pretty cool but causes all kinds of headaches. In this pic you can see that it gouges the crap out of the cowling. The only way that I can think of is to cut the fenders and mount them that will create some kind of seam but I don’t think that would look very good.

One thing that you don’t see in the pictures is the running boards. The running boards attach to the bottom of the front and rear fenders… Yet another problem with the tilt front end. It could be addressed with cutting the front fenders and creating that “seam”.

I have a few things to consider moving forward but I am seriously considering removing the tilt front end completely.

What do ya all think? What would you do?? :thinking:


#5

I would remove it, it will be easier to work with. Lot of work, but will be worth it.


#6

mean kenny yes you have it . the moonshiners dream car . go back to org. flange edges so hood comes down on fender edge . take hinges off weld extention,s on them with two hole,s on dia. if you need to turn 90 degree do it . get card board make dumbies we CAN do any thing. misfit just did a 40 ford .put a nice gear in rear but have overdrive. fun man. buy mean kenny


#7

@meankenny Thanks Mean Kenny :grinning: Tell me more about this “Misfit” that did a 40. Is there any pictures of his car I can see?


#8

mean kenny; i doni have any pics. i tried to reply off yahoo it did not work. sit down in the house. drink your evening bev. start drawing the door, what you are going to do is on the inside kick panel bring the hinge in ward turn forward to front of car . another wards make a 90 degree turn go to front. mite have to cut inside lip of door opening [knotch[ . put notch holes inside kick panel up one front and back on other put two holes in hinge side by side. you can cut from junk yard truck the adj. area and weld to your,s. this will work genesis, all we know is cut grind weld don,t be different we are different. mean kenny respond if needed


#9

skeeter mean kenny here hope you got my other post. go to junk yard find truck with dented doors not useable get two try to buy both for 20 to 25.00 .use - cut the inside adj. panels. cut your door 5 6 7’’ square holes adj panels same. mount about 3/4 from door edge in front each hinge. cut plate 3/16 or 1/4 thick but weld to hinge. weld terrific. paint light color to scribe adj. panel bolt pattern drill good nice holes take time. bolt up with grade 8 bolts adj. you will love this.when you havemade perfect epoxy prime the doors.look google 1940 ford door hinge fix. if i would have been there the guy would still be jumpin . skill to kill mean kenny


#10

Sent you a PM. Thanks Mean Kenny :+1:t3: :beer:


#11

hey skeeter ,mean kenny w ky. this program will move door up down if in and is needed you may have to make shim plates make sure the door is not all tweaked out of shape use 20ga shims. i need to learn to send pics or drawings.put fiberglass hood on ebay or face book meet some where to deliver. if needed take to swap meet you will not take a loss i bet someone is looking for one. skill on!


#12

hey skeeter; have you warmed up yet.seen video snow. hoped you got started on 40 door,s mean kenny rain but warmer no more freez


#13

@meankenny Nope, still cold here. In fact it is snowing as we speak. :persevere: My to-do list is getting pretty big, hope it warms up soon.


#14

mean kenny; i wrote in body and paint. i just studyied yesterday that for the paint job of are dreams you need a desiccant dryer air filter. there is a MUST have on ebay motors for a123.00. that is pretty cheap insurance for a perfect job. i didn,t mean it i learned it by mistake. i try to be helpful. i been drinking alot of coffee painting inside house it has been 10 yrs since i gutted this house. i bought when i retired paid CASH 29,500 in had ben burned. i restored it now it is worth 160,000. i love to do mechanic work but i am done. except my on that why i decided to labap i know i can the only thing i have problems with is spelling. later skeeter stay positive


#15

skeeter where are you! ha


#16

skeeter happy saturday; i looked 1940 ford door latch images. now a companay called MAC,S showed up or popped up! anany way check with maybe they have what you are looking for. on youtube my friend pete was doing a 40 hood latch area metal cool work. by for now


#17

skeeter look up speedway automotive bear jaw latches great skill not luck.


#18

@meankenny, Thank you very much for searching for me. There are a bunch of companies out there that sell them but they’re out of stock. I’m heading to Portland Oregon to the “Portland Auto Swap Meet”, April 6, 7 & 8th. I have a good list of parts I will be searching for and will probably find the majority of what I need at that swap meet. meankenny, that swap meet is HUGE!!

If I can’t find the “Stock Latches” then I will be changing it to after market hidden hinges. If I go that route, then I guess going for the “Original Stock” look is out.


#19

hey hello skeeter i thought you said latches, the would be different than a old peterbilt truck. now you should be able to totally make them exact yourself. i think you can buy small dia. sechuled 80 pipe for the pivit pin weld on the end of mild steel plates the same size as orig. still adding on for the adjust plate i will look again, google 40 hinges. skeeter man i am enjoying this that most would call impossible. enjoy the swap meet think 2 steps a head in case their is another SMALL project to address for the coolest 40. i have a old man i met with a 40s several show winning truck i can talk to him this week he is the one that told me about speedway auto. i needed a cooling fan spacer for the ranger, because i went with a 2’’ thick raditaor instead of the god forbidden 5/8’’ thick one it came with so both heads would get hot and crack, shame on ME.


#20

@meankenny…Oops, you are correct. I did say latches and I still mean latches… if I can’t find Stock original latches then I am going to change the entire both the Hinges and the latches to more updated ones… Sorry for the confusion.