1966 Mustang Restore - sharing some details


#1

I use the term “details” because it is all about detail - and how much your willing to do and still make sense. I am not building a Concours car…that designation has gotten so far out of hand, they had to resort to things like brush strokes on the seam sealer to look factory…oh well.

What I am doing is starting at the front and working my way back on EVERYTHING. I am still months away from paining and I have decided to go “balls out” Sherwin Williams Barret Jackson Red Hot Chili Pepper Red

Anyway, just want to share some before , after during kind of photos …I am fortunate…the car was not in bad shape and rust was / is not really an issue…mostly clean up or surface


#2

@arcorob Looking really good!! Lots of hard work paying off :+1:t3:

What is that substance you have smeared all over the brake drums? Looks like whatever it is it did a pretty nice job.

Kent


#3

Stuff is amazing…Its Eastwoods Rust Convertor. Comes in a bottle of liquid. You rub it on with a brush and boom…converts the rust to black oxide. You can do two coats and when its done, the rust is gine and its black. Then to seal it, I used High Temp silicon spray (what you would use on an exhaust ) for that nice matte black look …Their rust convertor and rust encapsulater is great stuff…

A few hours ago, I removed the drivers front brakes in prep, cleaned, used a dremel with wire brush and then anything that looked like surface rust (especially around the rim) got coated with the rust convertor …Here is the result after just a few hours - before and after


#4

By the way, best example (I should have posted it) was how the drums STARTED


#5

I rebuilt one of these 289 engines once for guy. I really liked working on the car. He drove for two months added a tach and then crammed a push tube rite thru the rocker and kept driving it. Asked me to come over and look at it. Ill never forget what he said. It just started missing when I turned into the driveway. Well the valve stem was worn off were the rocker ended up riding. I said no warranty and he was mad. Well it wasn’t the engines fault the driver didn’t understand RPM. LOL Looks sweet, by the way, patients is a must for a nice looking car./ Looks like you have it. Good luck


#6

Wow! looks REALY good. Thank you for the info. I will definitely be getting some of that stuff :+1:t3:


#7

hows it going, Progress?


#8

Hi Brian,

Its going really really well…except …I am stuck on how to paint the dash. No fear painting the car but technically, I should be using a lacquer on the dash…well, I have a post about it but no one has answered…

BUT I have to say, everything else is moving at a rapid pace…My trunk which I thought was a challenge? Well, check out the before and after photos. I have one piece to weld in this weekend (the only rust through on the entire car but check out the progress…
BEFORE


AFTER

Also been restoring a lot of individual parts (for a change of pace) like the glove box door


#9

very nice. Whats up on the dash paint question? Who told you lacquer. Are we talking plastic metal? I personally don’t like lacquer. Don’t get me wrong its nice but the maintenance is terrible.


#10

The dash is painted metal from the factory. The inner doors are painted metal that I actually stamped steel that makes it look like vinyl texture. SUPPOSEDLY what is sold is Lacquer to do them but I think I am going to have to do base coat/matte clear because I just cant get the rattle cans to do what I want. I have the ashtray to experiment on (have done 5 experiments) - The one thing I haven’t done to the ashtray is try it with primer first which may be my missing link to a good rattle can job.

Here is what most people get for the dash and metal doors, rear panels, etc.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/interior-lacquer-1965-1973/p/LAC6473-V/


#11

If it’s lacquer your painting over? I have always been told to seal or sand it off until all the dead lacquer is off then seal it and use 2k paint if thats the paint your going to use. I have the same dilemma but I am having it blasted off then metal washed then an epoxy primer. Satin will be used on all interior, well most of it anyway. Im not fond of real shinny color inside, but it does have its places. Look forward to seeing some of your trials. It helps us all with decisions.


#12

I have been meaning to ask you if your horse is all numbers matching? If so this will change all my answers! Not numbers matching it just becomes a preferred look your going for like the trial paint your doing to get what will be what you will have to look at every time you get in. That means allot to you Im sure.


#13

Hi Brian,

No, not numbers matching. The 1965 Trannie alone eliminates that. Here is what I expect in the ended. Less than concours but much better than daily driver. I have made every effort to restore and refurbish what she has but some parts just cant be done. Example - The tail lights, parking lights and backup lights - all new. They were just too far gone. But other parts like the drivers vent, heater box, hood lock assembly, restored…glove box restored,the handles for windows and doors , restored. Tail light harness, brand new. So like I say, if they are fixable and look good, great. But makes no sense to keep a 52 year old rotten looking taillight harness _:slight_smile:

I will keep everyone posted on the dash and doors.


#14

thats exactly what Im doing but with extras such as suspension efi ls and 4l80e wheels and tires. But in the end I want it to look like a new 68 c10 with nice wheels. But under the skin its something else. Cant wait to see your pics. My parts didnt show up for this weekends to do list.