Nice progress. Can’t wait to see the next update.
Shot it with epoxy primer today because I’m going out of town for a week and I don’t want anything to get damaged.
Look great!! Keep up the good work
@rjmcdermott81, Wow! What a difference… Looks Great
I’m back at it after taking a couple months off. I’m inspired after seeing the results @arcorob is getting on his mustang.
I pulled the front and back windows out and I’m finishing out getting the roof totally flat with some finishing putty. Next I’m going to hit the roof with some more epoxy (have some metal showing in spots) and prime the door jambs. The I can start 2k and blocking.
All the bodywork is done and the entire car has been epoxy primed. Since I did it in stages and some of the epoxy has been on for a few months the local paint guy said I need to first lay down a fresh coat of epoxy before applying 2k. I’m sanding everything with 220 grit so the new epoxy will bite. As I’m going I’m blocking and finding low spots to fill. This phase is going fast…expect to lay down epoxy + 3 coats of 2k next week.
That’s looking real nice. I love those little cars. Keep up the good work!
I put down fresh epoxy and then 2k. I’ve never sprayed 2k before but it was so much easier to work with than epoxy (mix, spray, clean). It did go on a little dryer in some areas though. From reading this may have been technique or maybe temps. It’s probably about 95 in my garage when I’m spraying. I used slow hardener but still not perfect looking. I’m going to start water sanding with 400 this week.
Sanded everything with 400 and there were some low spots that showed up with guide coat on the roof and trunk lid. I shot any exposed metal and epoxy primer with a quick coat of epoxy and then layered in more 2k surfacer on the car.
Doing another round on the roof with guidecoat and it’s very close. Going to try to shoot the low areas with surfacer tomorrow
Remember whey you’re blocking, it’s not really a low spot until your filler or metal show up on the “level”. On large areas, I try to wet the surface with a wax and grease remover to make sure that I’m “really” seeing a low spot. Guide coat doesn’t lie but you’ve got to make sure you’ve sanded enough too. Can’t wait to see it ready for paint!!! Looking good.
Great point. I was so afraid of breaking through but I’m going to seal it with epoxy anyhow. On the last pass I was able to get everything good and flat on the roof. Thanks for the pointer.
This week I started to lay down some paint. I started in the trunk because it’s mostly going to be covered by carpet anyway. Color change… the orange I wanted from ppg was 1,050 for a gallon of base. Instead I went with hennarot, an orange red oem bmw color that is more period correct. Only 250 from ppg.
I sealed it with reduced jp375 epoxy the day before and then put down 3 coats of color with 10 min flash times and waited 2 hours before putting down 3 coats of clear.
This was the first time I used my atom x27 lvlp gun. I used it for clear and man. It was so easy to use and get the clear to flow on.
Big progress. I sealed the whole car with epoxy and then did base/clear. For my first time, I’m pretty happy with it. No major issues, but orange peel that will need a really good cut/buff. I feel like it should all flatten out.
This is very cool project and i love the fact that you choose a color that many BMWs had back in the day. You don’t see many cars nowadays with the vibrant color. I am pretty sure when you go down the road : this car will surely turn heads!
I haven’t posted on here in a while. I posted a lot more detail on the BMW forum, but I wanted to post up the final result. I’m extremely happy with the way the car turned out. It’s not perfect but its far beyond what I ever thought I would produce in my garage. I’m excited to do another when I get the chance.
I couldn’t have done this without all of the tutorials posted by @TonyB and the resources on LABAP.
Someone from The Drive snapped a pic of it at RadWOOD Austin and used it as the header photo for this article:
Here are more pics