Body filler too thick for skim coat

.HELP. I have Eastwoods premium contour body filler and I have to do a whole car (66 Mustang) panel by panel. By the numbers. The problem is the stuff is so thick, I cant get a smooth skim coat. I have tried varying amounts of hardener (within reason) and that just affects the “kick”. How do I THIN this to skim coat ?

Just FYI - my first shot is on the trunk lid. Sanded to bare metal. Then, Eastwood Fast etch to prevent any flash rust and take care of any pits (didn’t see any). Cleaned the next day with pre. Mixed body putty (and I am NOT a newbie at Bondo and such) and this stuff is just so dang thick …I want a skim coat…but wound up with a sanding project …I will say …it does sand nice when worked but geeze…doing the whole car like that I will look like the hulk. I had to use 80 grit on a sander just to break the top coat…then guide coat then hand sand with long block

Your pic didn’t come through but my experience with Eastwood was the same as yours. I switched and only use evercoat now. Their stuff is great to use.

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mean kenny here, our life evolves around 80 grit. now to fix your p oroblem. go buy 6’’ 25 grit or something close just 2 or 3 pieces. sand away the bettie davis. NOW buy evercote rage gold pink can buy a gallon 54.00 roughly, hand sand metal with 80 grit in a cross hex. put a golf ball and 1/2 on plastic sheet come across one line of hardner fold in mix not stir. spread love on to metal. for skinny coat start at top of panel and come down. don’t over work this ain’t walmart cake department. now if you don;t have dura block kit get it do not touch with out the block kit 40.00? on ebay. use 80 grit roll board paper sticky cross hex sand only no up and down bull crap. now when you look pretty good go to big lot buy 1.00 $ can of FLAT BLACK ONLY SPRAY PAINT, spray lines across repair, sand again with 80 on block hex pattern only untilblack is gone. how ever donot chase low spots in work, refill with rage skinny coat only low areas do the same prosses over, once all guide coat comes off by hex side to side x now and only now you are a body man, there is NO OTHER WAY DO NOT GUESS YOUR WORK. signed the mean kenny at the pub

I thank you gentlemen for the advice…But I already know how to do body work. The issue was the substance not the user :smile: I switched to Evercoat Z grip…awesome

So the trunk is done - smooth as a babies bottom, no waves and ready for epoxy and high build. …and the hood is in progress , on second coat to address lows…should be done tonight. I will epoxy primer tonight or tomorrow on both…So here is the progress photos

Bare metal trunk - small dent on right side

In progress trunk / bare metal hood in background - 1/2 of which is fast etched

Final trunk - ready for epoxy

Hood in progress - almost there

Oh and I finished all brakes, got her back on 4 wheels , tested…changed all shocks…she is really coming along

buy u-pol flyweight gold it is amazing

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I know this topic is old, but I just saw it and wanted to comment because I have had this issue and have a couple of suggestions. In this case I assume you bought enough that you don’t want to just throw it away and buy something else. First, you can buy some cheap thin filler and mix it in together. This works fine and I have never heard of fillers not playing nice together. Second, you can buy a product called Evercoat Plastic Honey Resin. This is similar or possibly the same thing as the liquid that floats to the top of your filler can when it is not mixed. You are essentially adding more of the binding liquid to the filler. A small amount goes a long way and it costs around $20 a pint, which should last awhile. Put a little of this in with the thick filler and it will smooth it out nicely. If you don’t like these suggestions, you can also thin filler with acetone, I know a lot of people do that and have no issues. I personally don’t like the idea. It just seems like something that is likely to bite you by not playing nice with the primer, basecoat or Clearcoat.