Thanks for tagging me. Mixing pearl powder by weight is a good way to go. I have mixed mine by weight before and that’s an accurate way to do it. The pearl in its dry form tends to have static in it so it sticks to my measuring spoon, the plastic mixing cup, etc. So doing it by weight works better than saying 1 tablespoon. There may be a recommended mix ratio from the vendor it you look at their literature, or maybe not and guessing is fine. I’ve mixed color shift pearl (it was from Paint With Pearl) at a ratio of 1.5 grams to 2 oz. of intercoat clear. I’ve used intercoat clears before from All Kandy and from House of Kolor (SG-100 for this) and from Tamco (895).
My problem is that my scale only measures 1 gram min. so for small quantities it is hard to measure, so I need to do 3 grams per 4 oz. But since your scale measures down to 1/10 gram that should work great! The mixture I’ve used in the past normally takes about 3 coats to get the right color, and that goes over a black base. I tested spraying it over silver once and it looked like pukie pink… yuk! But over black it has a nice purple to green shift.
You may want to shoot a coat of clear over it for your tests, so you will really see what the final outcome will look like because the clear should bring it out nicely.
Also I would recommend that you mix the pearl into an Intercoat clear rather than a normal clear. Intercoat clear is more like basecoat and is less likely to run. If you get runs in your pearl you will have to sand them out and respray the base and pearl again to get the right look. So using an intercoat clear will reduce the chance of runs.
Just like spraying candy, you should walk the full distance of whatever you are spraying with pearl. Don’t shoot the door and then shoot the fender and then the next part because it will be darker or more intense where the pearl overlaps each panel. Its fine to have overlap where sections meet at angles like the curve between the hood and the fender, but you want to avoid overlaps on straight sections because they will be obvious. So start at the front (or back) and walk the whole distance for each pass. If you haven’t shot this before, check out this video from about the 16:00 mark - 19 min. for what I’m talking about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OUr1u2MRqQ
With pearl (and candy) use a 75% overlap versus normal 50% that you might use for basecoat. Use full fan, but you might turn down the volume just a bit to reduce the risk of runs with a 75% overlap. Its not rocket science but just a few things to get right and you will have fun with it!
You always want to finish the project with clear because pearls won’t hold up in the sun without a clear over them with UV protection. If you are not shooting the pearl and the clear on the same day, then after you are done with the pearl, finish with one coat of plain intercoat so that on a future day you can come back and wet sand it to prep for clear (or other graphics, etc.) Otherwise you will miss your recoat window and then will be in trouble because you can’t sand the pearl without affecting its color. So the plain intercoat over the pearl gives you a way to sand and prep for the clear after the recoat window has passed. Just in case, like my projects, yours is taking a long time! But no problem to shoot the pearl and then go right ahead and shoot the clear once the pearl has flashed. Just check the TDS on your Intercoat clear for the right times between coats and know the max recoat window (often 24 hours, but it can vary.)
Hope this info helps, and good luck!