Mean kenny goes wild when it aint cold


#1

por-15 any body tried it. this 96 ranger project i used it .i just wanted to tell anyone thinking of other products stop. this stuff is so cool you can see the money when it dry;s cause it looks like a million bucks caution use all your safety equipment, i mean it. it is still cold here in west ky. cant wait to get back on ranger iam ready to start welding hole,s in ranger bed where the 4wd fender flares came off. i bought the 96 ranger for 400.00 . the 3.0 i rebuilt fired wright up ya baby. when i am done nurse april will have a new ranger worth about 15gs. i should have half that but i got the best parts i could get. get off the porch big dog. i tell mean stories.


#2

I used it on the interior floor pans of my '65 GMC and '70 Torino. I like both the POR-15 paint and POR-15 patch for pin hole fixes in unseen places.


#3

mean kenny from w ky. cool for the come back. i am a one finger typer , old man. i like the pub there is a promies of incommon reply. the por15 is so good and the pub will see you get the truth. some lesson,s we learn can be extremebly costly. wished i could spell. if you think like a enginer you can figure some times they don,t eat enough donuts,i did work at gm power train building offices. seen the nascars on 4 post shock machines . love redneck,s.


#4

Where have you been meankenny? I’ve missed your posts. Have you had a chance to check out my newest pics? You mentioned the POR15. Well I just used it’s compettitor Chassis Saver. Lol. I don’t know which one is best between the two but time will tell I’m sure. But one thing I do know. They warned about pouring the paint out of the can and putting the lid back on without cleaning the channels the lid sets in. They said if there is any in those channels that it will weld the lid on and you won’t getnit back off. Well, they forgot to also tell everybody that here’s a chance you won’t get the lid off in the first place. Lol. I couldn’t! I pried and pried and even pulled the channel and all up from the top of the can and the lid still wouldn’t come off. After all that prying I figured there would have to be a week spot somewhere so I could target that area. So I figured I’d turn the can 90 degrees on its side and just roll it slowly and watch to see where it is leaking. NOT! There wasn’t a drop or even a moist spot anywhere around that lid. Dang! I don’t know if it really is good for rust but if anybody needs a lid welded to their paint can that crap is awesome. Lol. :grin: Check our my latest pics and holler back. I’m heading back out now to do some more masking. Getting ready to epoxy primer all my bare metal and then sand it a bit and shoot the whole cab with primer sealer. Once I get that done I can pull it outside without having to worry if ya gonna rain or not. The. I’m gonna attack the bed. Also gonna shoot the bottom and back of the side panels with Chassis Saver as well. Then epoxy and primer sealer and block sand time. I’m doing all the body work I know it needs up front. Taking it down to bare metal where I work. But after the primer sealer that’s where I’m gonna refine my work and try to hone it down nice and flat if there’s any problem areas. Which I’d say there will be since I’m not real good at it yet. Then reprime any spots that need it and then ready for the base coat.


#5

mean kenny who else, wow all i can tell you of auto products is first do your mental powers to zone in on what you are doing, block out any other daily crapp. now the reason is because $$$$$ with that said. now when you use por 15 or other same products you must WEAR your resperator this stuff WILL put you in the ER RRRR . now when you use por15 poor in plastic cup what you think you will use,get walmart bag put over the can then the lid ,then you can reuse. take your time and mix paint stuff, read the cup make amark on which scale you are using. NOW NOW each step you do put all can front and center on bench in front of you then mix, then push them back in there place . don’t get in a hurry at all put a piece of yellow tape on all three cans of your clear stuff even right on cans with marker clear clear so on. if you epoxy stir 5 mins pour and spray one coat clean gun takes 5 mins wait 30 mins then put your paint on get wipe all towels at paint store 2 packs 12 $ wipe between each coat of paint. but. when doing a hood or roof wipe the overspray off before you do the other side of the hood. if you epoxy and paint stop for the day come back in the morning and wipe all look for any bad spots at all sand with 1500 damp rag then clear MAKE SURE SURE YOU PUT HARDNER IN CLEAR! i did not and had to wipe the hole cab down with laquer thinner cost about 250.00 $$$$ read this reply carefuly write all this reply down on index card put it on the bench read read. you are my friend i am going to save you$$ $$ mean kenny is here


#6

hey use cross patern in bondo sanding x use flat black lightly guide coat. after primer sanding wet down repair stand back look at a angle at repair site, YOU got to get happy with it your brain will tell ron wow that looks great if not you will shake your head. everything has to be perfect. if you mop down your garage you wont have a dust problem i don’t have a paint booth it fine. you will be as nerves as a female cat in a trailer park. you will calm down during the epoxy spray, don’t step on air hose it makes your hand move up and down. learn on my brother hurry not!


#7

Hello kenny. Brian Here . Hows the project coming? been away working thought I would check in.