New from Canton Ohio

Hi My name is Terry and I’m 70 years old. I live in the USA, Canton, Ohio. I’ve been wrenching on and racing cars and motorcycles for over 50 years, (still drag racing) . Just in the last couple I’ve gotten interested in body work and painting. I’ve been watching Tony on you tube for about 6 months or so, and I’ve learned a lot. I’ve tried my hand at painting and so far I’ve done some pretty decent work with cheap guns and not the best of conditions. But now I think I’m ready to invest in better tools. I think I’m ready to order an Atom gun, but I’m not sure which one. I’m leaning towards the X20 but not sure whether the LVLP or the HVLP I don’t plan on painting a whole car but I do get into painting hoods fenders bumpers and such. I’m thinking the LVLP would be better for clear coat, and for now I could still use my cheaper guns for base. So Tony or anyone else what do you think.

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I own both the X21 and X27 in LVLP only for the reduced overspray and so I don’t put a huge load on my air compressor.

If you have a very large 80 gallon air compressor with high cfm then the HVLP will be the better all around gun but if it is a smaller air compressor you will be able to cheat a bit with the LVLP, even though you mentioned you won’t be spraying a whole car it is always good to know you have an air compressor that exceeds what the gun needs.

You can technically spray base coat or clear coat with both LVLP or HVLP, LVLP guns tend to put out material a tiny bit slower so you might need to move your hand a bit slower as well to put down clear coat.

Don’t think if a gun is LVLP it will never be able to spray base coat and if it is HVLP it won’t be able to spray clear, one might be slightly better for the job than the other but both will lay down a really good coat.

Essentially make sure your gun won’t be starving for air making you wait for the air compressor to catch up and run not stop building heat and moisture. LVLP tend to use a good amount of less air.

Thank you for the reply. Air supply is no problem, I have an 80 gallon Speedaire compressor. I think based on what you say I’ll go for the X20 HVLP

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hey Terry! If you get the LVLP version, you can also spray basecoat with it no problem. I would look into the X20, or X27 LVLP-MP. If you want to get technical HVLP is recommended for spraying basecoats… and the LVLP is better for laying the clears. But from my experience, you can spray base and clear from any version without any issues at all. In fact, I’ve sprayed for years (when I was 17-19 years ) out of my old SATA RP which is just like the X20, 21, or X27 LVLP-MP model. I sprayed many single stage jobs, base and clear systems with fantastic results. Yes the gun matters (to a certain point) but if you know how to handle flowout, you can always get great finishes. Good luck Terry and keep us posted!

Chose the LVLP gun! Go with the x27! You can spray base clear and single stage all out of the same gun. I like the 1.4 tip best. You just reduce the air pressure a little for the base coat. I spray my base at 30 psi and clear at 40 psi at the gun. I think tony said he sprays at 26 for base and 30 for clear with the Atom. To be honest the results are not going to change much until you learn how to spray properly and that comes with experience. To prove a point to someone I went and bought a $10 gun from Harbor Freight and sprayed a entire car with it and it came out beautiful. I also used a 2 hp 8 gal compressor when I did that. Sprayed it at 26 base and 32 clear and it came out like glass. The only difference I noticed was it used a little more material than my sata would have but unless you are painting everyday it would not make any difference for the hobbyist. Since you are ready to invest in a good gun get the lvlp 27 and use it for everything and keep it clean. It should last you forever! Good luck!

Looking for a answer from Tony or someone. I want to spray POR 15 or Majic enamel Tractor and implement paint using the Atom x21 LVLP gun. I have a smaller compressor. What tip cap should I use?

Both por15 and Majic enamel are super thick paints you will need to thin them, Por15 calls for thinning no more than 5% so you will want the biggest tip possible, one thing, if you have used POR15 before you will know it is no joke once it hardens, I would personally never spray POR15 with a $300 gun, I would use a $10 Harbor fright gun or brush it on, also as a personal opinion, look into KBS Rust Seal, better than POR15 and cheaper

but once again, do you want to risk gunking up a $300 gun with a super difficult to clean paint?

With Majic you can thin it with VM Naptha and get away with a 1.4 tip

I sprayed Majic paint and personally didn’t like it, my personal recommendation is to use Valspar’s Tractor and Implement if you can find it locally, Amazon also carries it. It is a bit more money but dries much better and is much more forgiving to work with, I was really annoyed when Tractor Supply stopped carrying Valspar.

I have personally sprayed Valspar/Majic with a 1.4/1.5 tip and tinned it 20% with great results. Also try to use their Enamel hardener additive too, works very well.

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Thanks for your help. I actually used the POR 15 and brushed it on. Looks good on my chassis.