No need to drop coat FINE metallics?

Ok guys I am now a VIP member and just picked up a tip from Tony’s Miata video I watched yesterday. He clearly says on his video that he did not need to criss-cross or drop coat this paint because the metallics were very fine. I have been searching for this information like crazy and hopefully I found my answer. The factory paints these days all seem to have a bit a flake in them. This is the color of the truck I am doing. Dodge PGF Emerald green pearl. It’s just a basic factory match basecoat-clearcoat system and the base has very fine flake in it. Would everyone agree that this does not need to be drop coated?

You’re right, there’s really no need to drop coat any metallics or pearls if they lay down without “tiger striping”. It’s not an extra step you need to worry about. It’s more like a “touch up” as you go along.

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That depends on your paint and air setup more than anything else. If you’re spraying basecoat-clearcoat you’re less likely to tiger stripe (and therefore need to drop coat) because of the nature of the paint than if you were spraying single-stage metallic.

Also, if you have a compressor that can put out 15 cfm @ 90 psi you’ll get better atomization than if you have a 30 gallon setup that shoots 8 cfm @ 90 psi.

In either case, you absolutely should shoot a test panel first, to see if you’re prone to tiger stripes or not. In any event it never hurts to drop coat, just to be safe

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Thanks Larry. What is your preferred method of drop coating? Spray 12" from panel at 28 psi 90 degrees to the original spray pattern? I actually have a fender that came off my truck that was dented pretty but I plan to spray half of it as a test panel to see what the final product will look like. I can 320 it and then 400 grit wet sand it and basically have it looking like the rest of my truck that is not currently in primer and then spray it like I will the rest of the truck. Great tips on the compressor helping with atomizing as well!