Roof prep. Need help and opinions


#1

Ok guys so I removed my old stripes on the SS/T last night revealing perfect factory base/clear underneath. The rest of the roof was cooked (literally) and all the clear was gone so I buzzed all that off down to the factory primer, feather edged the good clear areas with 320 on the DA into the factory primer areas. My question is, should I just buzz the good paint down to the primer for a few coats of new primer or do I primer over the factory primer (in the 3 areas shown in the picture) and overlap into the good clear and block it all down smooth for new base coat?


#2

This is what the roof looked like before I started. I would hate to have to sand off all of the good base/clear where the stripes used to be.


#3

Hey SS-EXPRESS. That’s coming along nicely. I would put 2 coats of high build primer on it and block it. That’s a regular cab so the roof isn’t that big anyways. I know that you’re not a fan of “layers”, but you’ve got old paint under new, not factory, paint. This way you know it’s all sealed and shouldn’t have any issues down the road. Those panels can even be blocked with a DA sander if you keep it good and flat. If your window is rubber mounted, I would suggest removing it too for a nice seamless finish. Keep crankin’!


#4

Thanks buddy. Do you know how the rubber comes out around the front and rear windows? Maybe tonight I will just DA down the remaining paint that is left on the roof. It will only take a few hours and a few more sanding discs LOL. That way I have flat smooth factory primer to paint new primer over top of. I think I will be able to sleep better at night If I do this. Here is a picture of the side of the truck. Still need to prime and install new front fender but all other body work is taken care of and primed and flat.


#5

The windshield is urethaned in but you can stick a length of small cotton rope under the rubber to lift it off the paint and then just mask it. Make sure to blow it good and clean it good or you’ll get a puff of sanding dust when you paint. Then you’re polishing.

I believe the back window is a rubber gasket mount but it is a slider so maybe it is urethaned too. The best way to check is the access the pinchweld on the inside and see if it has a rubber gasket over it. If you can see the pinch weld, it’s urethaned and then there is that cost to r&i it but it’s not necessary just makes a nice job with no tape line. If it comes off easy, I generally take it off. If it costs money, I leave it alone.


#6

Great tip on the cotton rope! What size? I guess wait until nearing painting to do this so it doesn’t gain memory and stay wedged up?


#7

Size depends on how it was installed but normally a 3/8" rope will do it. Use it to sand before you prime and then take it out to let the rubber relax. Prep the roof and then stick it in there again to finish the primer stage then take it out again. Use a fresh piece when you go to paint, let the paint dry before you take it out. Now you might end up with the rubber staying up in a couple spots but after a day in the sun, it should go back down again. Yeah don’t leave it in there for 2 weeks.