Awesome stuff @SCCaptain - Frank I may get another boat when I move back to Hawaii! They are a blast!
Hey, this is JD and I’m currently restoring a 99 Jeep Wrangler from the ground up. This is a big step for me as I’ve never done any serious auto repairs or body work. However, I’ve been rattle can spraying most everything (bikes, motorcycles, machinery, furniture, etc.) since I was in grade school. Does that count? LOL. Seriously, thanks to Tony & other YouTube videos, I think I can accomplish this.
I’m in my 50’s and a technology guy by trade, but love to restore/repair things back to like new condition. My wife and I stripped the paint from the chassis last fall and just painted it this past weekend. Did get some overspray/dry/rough finish in some areas, but not too bad for a first timer.
Pictures below are before and after paint.
Looking good JD
Thanks, I appreciate that.
What kind of paint did you use? I have to do the same thing on my 40 coupe frame and I was going to use POR 15. Have any experience with that?
Eastwood’s epoxy primer and their chassis ceramic black. They have 3 types of chassis black. My neighbor (Rick, who used to work for NASCAR) had used this Eastwood paint system. I’m real happy with the results, but haven’t taken the ball peen hammer test to it yet. There are mixed results on the eastwood.com website about their chassis paint, but I think most of them is due to inexperience. Hope that doesn’t happen to me.
I have used POR15 on other projects (skid plate, barn hinges, my homemade blast cabinet), but after discussing with Rick and the guy at my local auto paint store (who use to be in the auto collision industry), they steered me away from that. Bottom line, POR15 does best on rusted pitted metal, not clean or stripped metal. I have also included an excerpt that I found from Fox custom cars addressing bare metal with epoxy primer. Hope that helps. I’ll let you know how it holds up. When do you plan to paint your coupe frame?
------- excerpt begins ------
A lot of amateurs will buy rust preventive/conversion products thinking it will save them a lot of work. The only way to completely remove rust is to sand it, grind it or wire brush it out. There are a lot of finishing products that cannot be used over an acid product. Even etch primer is not a good idea.
_Professional body shops have stopped using etch primer a long time ago. Even though the products are still on the market, there is no need for them. _
_At my shop we use Kirker Epoxy Primer. And for two reasons. Used unreduced, it’s a perfect adhesion promoter over bare metal. Second, reduced, it makes a perfect sealer. SPI also make an excellent Epoxy that can also be used as a sealer. _
For an excellent finish, a good coat of Epoxy over the bare metal, followed immediately with two coats of a quality 2K primer. You can let the part set for months before you start working out any dents. Lightly sand the 2k, (which sand a lot easier than the epoxy) and you can work right on top of the 2K, no need to return to bare metal. After working out your dents, another two coats of 2K and block sand to a perfectly smooth surface. All that is left, is to wait until you are ready to apply your base coat. Apply a coat of Epoxy Sealer, give it about 45 minutes to cure, and spray. So not only have you saved some time, but money as well, by not having to pay for a product that is not needed.
_Frank Cox _
Cox Custom Cars
Great information on the POR 15, the chassis I am working on is a custom Art Morrison so it’s not rusted or pitted. I am planning on painting it this spring when the weather warms up a bit so right now doing all the prep work. I think I will take your advice and look into the Eastwood materials you mention. Thank you very much for the detailed reply…
NP…hit me up again when you get close to choosing your paint system and I’ll let you know how its holding up. The frame is bound to get a few bangs and bounces while I move it around and start assembling the suspension.
The forum is a great idea, and I am happy to be here!
My name is Ron Chaney, and I am from Richmond Va. I’ve been a VIP member now for about 3 1/2 years.
My love for fixing and painting things started with bicycles when I was a kid, and my paint came from a can.
My love for cars started with my first, a 67 fastback Mustang, but I also enjoy restoring anything made of metal, old gas pumps, lubesters, Coke machines, etc.
My next project is a 2005 Chevy Kodiak rollback tow truck that I bought from the company that I work for. We also have a monthly car auction, where I have been able to pick up dozens of flipper projects over the years.
Anyway I’m excited about the new forum, and meeting many new like minded friends, that also love scuffing them up and shooting them.
I live in Massachusetts, just west of Boston. I Started doing body work about two years ago as a hobby. I have been teaching myself all aspects of body work including, welding, patching, Bondo, painting, etc. I have done a dozen small projects like fixing dents, rot, rust, etc. In my cars and family’s cars. I have been fixing cars mechanically since I was very young, and always wanted to learn how to do Auto body work, and have developed a real fondness for it. I have always loved working with my hands. I sit at a desk all day and can’t wait to get out from my desk and work on my projects. I don’t have a garage so I do most of my work out in my driveway. Really s*cks, especially on the east coast, but such is life. Next project is fixing my son’s car. He has some rust and small dents. I may paint the whole car just for fun. I know he does not like the current color, so should be a win win.
A Skill I really need to work on is blending paint on panels when I do a repair. The colors never seem to match close enough because my cars are all older than 10 years old and stock paint has lightened over time as well as other reasons like metalics, gun settings, etc.
Looking forward to this forum.
My name is Richied, I live in Boston,Ma
I’m 59yrs. I’ve been a sidewalk mechanic for over 40yrs and always wanted to do autobody. I started after my accident in my 2004 Crown Vic.
I love working with my hands because I like the feeling I get looking at the finished project. It gives me a sense of accomplishment. I have much more to say, but I’m running out the door for work. See you when I get back
Hello! My name is Brian and I have no current major projects. I just enjoy obtaining knowledge in case I need to put that knowledge to use. If I don’t know how to fix something then I’ll Google it and try and fix the issue on my own. I’ve always enjoyed tinkering with things. I’ve taken an online course on small engine repair and I’ve fixed a lot of mowers, chainsaws, and power washers for friends and family. No money involved. I just enjoy the challenge of fixing things. I’m looking to buy a used car to fix up and flip (hopefully for a profit)… I need the challenge. I now have the time, but I need the knowledge. Tony is very passionate about his trade and I’m confident I’ll learn from the master.
@blizz096, you seem a lot like me. I always loved the FIX. lol - I am a little biased, but you should check out vip… lol Cheers my man and great to see you here!!
Eugene vik here in USA ADA MN
i started painting trucks in viet Nam then went to 2 year auto body i got back to USA
experience with cars tried hard when i was young really ruind some stuff starting out i run my shop as a body shop for 18 years so i am way out of date on technology after i finished college in 1987 i started a muffler shop 10 years ago i got into show cars after playing with bikes, i now have 10 show cars some in disrepair in 2012 i was ISCA champion in radical cusgtom, have done GNRS , Detroit and a lot of other ISCA shows
i am poor so i have to do my own work on cars and that includes a lot of body repair and blending of paint
i am ASE triple master technician
i love the personal satisfaction of working with my hands
and have a total of 5 years of tech School, and a BS Voc ED degree
also a high school drop out