You want to see this - been a while - PICTURES


#1

Okay, so its been a while. I sort of gave up on the Pub when Tony stopped coming around, but that’s okay. Spent the summer doing all the body work to perfection (bare metal, body putty, epoxy primer, high build primer, more sanding and final coat of epoxy primer which I let dry for two weeks and scuffed 600 to accept paint). Sanding is hell. LOL. And so was my paint choice because let me tell you, small metal flake is ALOT harder than solid base alone but in the end as the pictures will show…WORTH EVERY DAY EVERY EFFORT …Painted and clear coated Wednesday.

Pictures will speak for themselves and don’t get bored…LOL …BTW…I used a 3mPPG spray gun for primer with 1.4 tip (comes out flawless) and for base and clear - THE MUST HAVE GUN - Devilbiss GFG670. It is AMAZING …comes with 1.2, 1.3 and 1.4 tips

BASECOAT ONLY

BASE AND CLEAR INDOORS

Full outdoor - sweet !!!

CLOSE UP OF FLAKE


#2

That is sweet! I’m planning on painting my ‘57 Chevy truck next spring. Never painted a vehicle before. Hope it turns out as nice as your project.


#3

Holy smokes dude - that looks great! Is the house next door to yours for sale because I need a useful neighbor for a change - lol. LOVE that color too.


#4

What did you use to keep the plastic walls so straight and taught? also when you sprayed did you have the garage door open all the way or a bit? how did you keep the paint area/ job clean whilst venting the paint fumes?


#5

I had never painted a vehicle before either.
Lesson one - watch TONS of youtube videos…The Gunman, Motivated Painter, Kevin Tezt from Eastwood, etc
Lesson 2 - Spraying of the primer is good practice before the final job and gets your technique down
Lesson 3 - You NEED a good gun like I mentioned…It makes a difference
Lesson 4 - The plastic was the heavy 200ft roll from home depot - taped to the ceiling and the floor used occasional thump tacks along the top at the ceiling so the tape would not pull off and taped the bottom edge to the floor
Lesson 5 - garage door open 24 inches with a fan Exhausting - do not have any air flowing across…that just begs for dust
Lesson 6 - Clean clean clean …tack after each base coat …you will get a stray hair or something and the tack cloth pulls it right out easily (with properly flashed base each coat) I had ZERO base coat trash
Lesson 7 - REPEAT lesson 1 10,000 times…LOL

Oh and I did wear one of those disposable paint suits and of course a respirator …be ready to sweat your nuts off in the suit BUT again, it really keeps all OUt of your paint

It was a labor of love and I could not be more pleased with the results :slight_smile:


#6

WOW! This looks amazing. Great tips as well and I think I already got them committed to memory. Does that Devilbiss gun use the DeKups system? Also, what paint brand did you use?


#7

SS express - I apologize for the delay

The devilbiss gun is the GFG670 $300 and worth ever single damn penny

I am sure it could use the decups. I bought the 3M adapter and use the 3M PPS cups

Brand of paint is Restoration Shop Brand from TCP global…omg …awesome stuff. Actually bought two KITS which came with Paint, Reducer, Clear coat and hardener. Each kit was $289 and you would think…ahh…cheap stuff …NO WAY …the paint is amazing, the clear coat is awesome…I cannot say how the clear will hold up UV through the years but sprays awesome, flows nice, sands nice…

I am about to post MORE pictures now that I have done the stripes - paint is again Restoration shop


#8

Great tips. I already purchased the Devilbiss FGL4 to compliment the small SRI Pro gun I already had. Both are capable of the DeKups and I have them from 9-24oz which is nice. The FLG4 also has a 30 oz aluminum cup which is nice if you feel like cleaning the cup and not going through DeKups. Devilbiss makes some really nice stuff.

I was always wondering about that Restoration shop paint. I honestly think it is relabeled PPG. PPG is amazing stuff and based on the great experience you had I guess this confirms it.


#9

Yes. It laid down beautiful honestly. Not thin or transparent. Very uniform. Of course since it was ultrafine flake I had to follow the process for ensuring no mottling but once you get the hang, no issue. DONT be afraid to be higher up and WHISPING on last coats - think of it as almost glazing the last coat (or two) and if you let the first coats dry properly, you wont REWET areas that could cause mottling
Trust me when I say, if you go ALL wet coats, you will 100% get mottling because flake and colors will pool in wet areas